Build an Ice Scooter

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 IMPLE construction and low cost enable any boy to
have one of these ice scooters First get a 2 by Y-in.
plank, 6 ft. long, round the front end, and attach a backboth from the underside of the body. To simplify driving the screws and to prevent splitting the wood, you
slip a washer on tlxm against the head, and drive them
in. Brackets on each side of the backbone are also adBICYCLL FORK vised, these being attached to the backbone pieces before they are fastened down on the body. You will note
that there are three blocks set in between the backbone
pieces. The forward two are spaced to provide a mast
171
pipe which serves as a bearing for a steel
rod. A short arm about 6 or 8 in. long is
attached to the steering fork, and one of
similar length is pinned and clamped to the
steering column, both extending out toward one side and linked together with a
1/4 or 3/8-in. iron connecting rod. This is
threaded at both ends, after which the ends
are bent over at right angles to fit holes in
the arms. Be sure that the pivot points
work freely. Two nuts on each end, locking each other, are better than only one
nut, which is likely to come off.
Runners are all the same size. They are
cut out of %-in. boiler plate by means of
a hacksaw, and the lower edges are filed to
a sharp edge as shown in Fig. 5. One of the
runners is attached to the front fork by
means of a steel rod, threaded at both ends
for nuts, and a couple of spacers that center the runner between the ends of the
fork. The spacers may be cut from pipe.
The rear runners are pivoted between two
lengths of angle iron bolted to the ends of
the rear crosswiece. which is a 2 by 6-in.
step and the aft one helps to support the
steering column. The blocks are fastened
in place by means of carriage bolts as
shown in Fig. 2.
The front runner support is an old bicycle fork, which is cut off, flattened and
drilled to suit as shown in Fig. 4. The fork
is clamped to the front end of the backbone
with heavy flat-iron straps, these being
welded to the fork, or bolted to it with
short machine screws so they will not interfere with the inside piece that turns.
The steering post is similarly attached with
flat-iron straps. It consists of a length of
plank, 4 ft. long.
For a sail you can use muslin, double
stitched and hemmed. The corners should
be reinforced for strength. Eyelets (grommets) are inserted along the mast and
boom edges of the sail for light rope lacing.
The boom should extend upward at an angle sufficient to clear the rider’s head as
well as the steering wheel. Fig. 1 shows
how a hook on the bottom fits an eyebolt
through the mast. However, an eye welded
to a ring that can be clamped to the mast
is preferable because any hole through the
mast tends to weaken it

 

 

 

 

 

 

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